Contemporary jewellery and silverware by leading designer-makers on sale

The Annual selling exhibition of innovation jewellery and silverware by contemporary designer makers.

Week Two of Goldsmiths’ Fair Goldsmiths’ Fair opens on Tuesday October 6 and is all set to be as exciting and stimulating as the first week.

With a change over of exhibitors, the new faces at the Fair include jewellers John Aristizabal, Daniela Dobesova, Paul Draper, Polly Gasston, Zehava Hashai-Spellan, Liana Pattihis and Harriet St Leger, silversmith Carl Padgham and filigree fountain pen case maker Henry Simpole.

Craftsmanship of the highest quality combined with original innovative techniques is much in evidence, for example Daniela Dobesova’s has developed original coiling and wire forming techniques which she fuses with traditional skills to create her distinctive and beautiful pieces.

Liana Pattihis is another jeweller who has developed her own unique method of working – in her case in applying enamel. Her work comprises mainly brooches and necklaces made out of various types of silver and gold chain, or chain attached to a copper mesh base which are then enamelled.

Enamel also plays a vital role in Harriet St Leger’s jewellery. Harriet combines richly coloured layered enamel with mixed metals such as silver, copper, 18ct gold, often incorporating pearls and takes her inspiration from natural forms, plants, birds and sea life. She has recently been studying the marine algae and seaweed collections behind the scenes at the Natural History Museum which has resulted in a fascinating new range of jewellery for men and women which she will be showing at Goldsmiths’ Fair.

In contrast Polly Gasston's work is unusual in that it is made entirely in 22ct gold with an occasional accent of fine silver. Her designs are influenced by the shapes and colours of the ancient world which she brings right up to date with a combination of modern and ancient semi-precious stones.

The themes of narrative and emotion which were in evidence in Week One continue into the second week. For example Scottish exhibitor, Grace Girvan, attempts to evoke a sense of nostalgia, through her jewellery harking back to a childhood spent by the sea. Shapes, colours, compositions and textures are derived from observations made while walking along the shores and headlands of Orkney.

Likewise Rie Taniguchi’s one-off pieces express sense of humour, playfulness and movement and hark back to images from her childhood in Japan. Her “peagon” brooch is a prefect example. Based on an imaginary creature part bird and part dinosaur, it is exquisitely made in 18 carat gold with red enamel details and a pink tourmaline eye, and articularet feathers, arms and legs.

Fantasy also features in John Aristizabal’s jewellery which owes much to his Latin American culture, such as the strange mythical creatures from snails to feathered snakes which have inspired his distinctive ring collections.

John’s designs combine Tumbaga gold – an alloy made of gold and copper that dates back to pre-Columbian times – with elaborate textures and metal contortions.

Contemporary dance is the inspiration behind jeweller Zehava Hashai-Spella’s sculptural and colourful kinetic jewellery. Her latest collection is based on examining and observing shapes and lines created by the body in motion which she transfers into colour and texture, using silver, gold, oxidation process, enamels and precious stones.

Swirling lines and sculptural forms are also the trademark of designer goldsmith Paul Draper, who makes dynamic and distinctive jewellery. Paul has an extensive men’s jewellery range and offers the client the opportunity to make a choice of different metals and with a bespoke configuration of stones to suit their own preferences, thereby giving each piece additional individuality.

An exciting addition this year to the wide choice of fabulous precious objects to be found at Goldsmiths’ Fair is a range of fountain pens with bespoke overlays in gold and silver by designer-maker Henry Simpole. Henry began creating filigree overlays for fountain pens in 1998 and his reputation has been growing steadily since. His collection draws inspiration from the Art Nouveau period and his designs reflect the organic curves and delicate beauty of the artists: Rene Lalique, William Morris and Alphonse Mucha.

The recent graduates who have been awarded free stands in Week 2 include jewellers Amy Duggan, Serena Park and Misun Won and silversmiths Miriam Hanid and William Odell.

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